Why pattern match while doing English Paper Piecing?
The biggest reason for me to pattern match is to get a whole, larger motif within my block. Pattern matching can give a very dramatic effect.
If it doesn't match, undo the lightly basted two edges and adjust the paper. Repeat Step 8 as needed.
The biggest reason for me to pattern match is to get a whole, larger motif within my block. Pattern matching can give a very dramatic effect.
It's also a skill builder. I like to stretch my abilities and have been known to pattern match up to twelve pieces!
One final reason is to use every last bit of fabric. Running along the selvages may be half of a motif. Sometimes I'm able to avoid cutting into the body of the fabric entirely because half will be at one selvage and the balance can be found across the fabric running along the other selvage. These are pieces of fabric I may have never used otherwise.
Here's how to match your hand-pieced blocks so they look "seamless" and create an entirely new effect in your finished piece.
Step 1: Select and cut section to focus/fussy cut
I like to find full or partial motifs along the selvage to start. In this case, the tail of a dolphin.
Step 2: Align EPP paper, avoiding selvage holes, and baste.
Especially for pattern matching, I recommend glue basting as it offers greater precision. Make sure not to include those ugly little selvage holes in the visible part of your block.
Step 3: Flip and see the piece.
You may choose to do all of your halves at once and then jump into the next step.
Step 4: Use your basted piece to pattern match.
In this case, I used my tail block and matched it up to its other half.
Step 5: Using your Air Erase marker, draw a line from corner to corner along the edge of your paper piece.
Create a small angle "flair" at the bottom corner. This helps for placement later.
Step 6: Align your template using the air erase marker line and flair.
Once you have it lined up correctly, cut it out.
Step 7: Flip your piece to the reverse side.
You should still be able to see your air erase marks on the back side of the fabric. Align your paper template ON the lines. Dab some glue on the two sides (line and flair marked sides) and fold over those two sides of fabric.
Step 8: Set your first completely basted piece face down next to your partially done one.
Match the corners and check motif alignment. If it matches in the back, it will match in the front.
If it doesn't match, undo the lightly basted two edges and adjust the paper. Repeat Step 8 as needed.
Step 9: Baste all remaining edges and lock it in.
Flip the blocks over to the right side and check the two pieces together. As you can see in the picture, some of the marker lines are still showing. No worries. They will go away on their own.
You may be wondering: Why do the lines still show up? Shouldn't the line be hidden? For me, my lack of ability to draw a straight line, even with the edge of the other paper piece there as a guide is a key factor. Also, the flair is an ad lib, so again, not precise.
You may be wondering: Why do the lines still show up? Shouldn't the line be hidden? For me, my lack of ability to draw a straight line, even with the edge of the other paper piece there as a guide is a key factor. Also, the flair is an ad lib, so again, not precise.
Step 10: Tape the two together and make the other sets.
Each one may be a little different, so taking the extra step of "connecting" your matches will save time and headaches down the road.
So, that's how you get a seamless look along two (or more!) blocks in paper piecing. I hope this helps you to achieve the look you're going for in your finished piece.
Want to give it a try? Our Lucy Boston EPP Fabric Bundle #5 which is being released on August 31, 2026, features this motif. (The link won't work until after that date.) You can also check out the blog post about making the block HERE.